Food & Drinks, US

Jelly Bar at Farallon

Seafood lair Farallon off Union Square has spent the last couple of years relaxing contentedly on a cushy bed of tourist dollars, relentlessly jacking up prices on its decent but hardly cosmic fare.

However, even the most embittered and postprandially impoverished diners admit that the nutty underwater Atlantean decor is something else. How to gawk without forking over dough for dinner? As with so many problems, alcohol is the answer. Farallon’s “Jelly Bar” – named for its jellyfish chandeliers – is fine early or late, as long as you avoid the dinner-hour crowds of loiterers waiting for a table in the restaurant.

Drinks are also expensive of course, but they’re competently mixed. Linger a bit and gape, then head elsewhere with your appetite and billfold largely intact.