Food & Drinks, France

Black Calvados

Look at these poor models! So delicate, so fragile. You don’t want them out in the world, bumping into stuff, or their hollow bones might shatter into a thousand pieces. Such is the genesis behind restaurants like Black Calvados, formed via partnership between couture kid Alex de Betak and rocker Chris Cornell.

There’s some supposed relation to the original Calvados restaurant – a fave of Aristotle Onassis – but damned if I can see the connection. The cuisine is New American, to be picked at and secretly regurgitated by its anorexic clientele. Cornell’s influence does bring in a small rock element more inclined to scarf the Kobe-beef miniburgers, but models and thrashers alike are really just there to relax behind multiple tiers of velvet ropes and enjoy very expensive bottle service. Is this the end of Le Paris Paris? Already?